The feast
Bayonne
BAYONNE
The lastest French city to feel the onslaught of the Schwarzies was Bayonne.
Bayonne is yet another beautiful, old city about 45 minutes to the North West of our base - Salies de Bearn. Bayonne is famous for its raw ham - Jambon de Bayonne. We have tried many versions of this delicious ham - the region we are in is famous for it. We are constantly passing the white cows or "boeuf blanc" as they are known on our many travels. The Bayonne version is streets ahead as far as we are concerned. We had a delicious lunch in Bayonne at a beautiful little place that was situated close to the covered market, by the river. We then purchased our evening treats from the same market. Gorgeous thin slices of the aforementioned Jambon de Bayonne eaten with a juicy, fresh melon.
A DRUNKEN EVENING
That evening, after a few drinks, we all went off to bed. Molly to the top floor - her domain as head of the household and somewhere to escape les enfants. I was checking my email and Joanna began to brush her teeth. For some reason she stuck her head out the shuttered window and heard some comotion coming from the end of our usually very quiet little street. It was coming from the local restaurant "La Terraces". Of course we had to investigate.
Within 5 minutes, Jo, Chris and I once again had our glad rags on were ready to party. We realised that nothing may well happen and were prepared to come straight back home. Jo had already brushed her teeth anyway...
We walked all the way to the bar - about 20 metres - and ended up having the most hilarious, drunken night yet that finished with us walking all 20 metres back home at 2am. Not sure what it was, but our French rocked that evening. Probably the confidence that a little alcohol gives. We chatted away with our new friends - Michael, Jean-Louis, Karen, Girard and Jean-Paul. They were our best pals. We bought the first round - trois bieres - and the rest of the evening was on them. The people here are SO lovely, we are so accepted. We get the feeling that as New Zealanders, we are somehow more accepted.
We drank heaps, laughed heaps and talked shit - in French. It was an amazing, impromptu night. Sometimes those unplanned ones are the best.
A FEAST
Every single restaurant recommendation has been the same name. La Belle Auberge in nearby Castigne. Today we went there for lunch at 12pm - all 7 of us.
It was stunning. Our menu du jour cost 13 euros each - about NZ$26.00. The kids menu enfants was 8 euros each. Its hard to explain but it was the best food experience yet. For our 26 euros, we got 4 courses
Garbure - the local soup of the region. A huge bowl of a gorgeous fresh vegetables and broth that we served into our own bowls with a large ladle.
Crudites - 5 abundant trays of beautiful fresh veges from their garden. Celeriac remoulade, tiny piquant radishes, the sweetest cucumber, beetroot and succulent strands of carrot with an awesome vinaigrette. We handed around the trays "Waltons" style and feasted on these wonderful veges.
Caneton sauvage roti et haricots vertes au beurre - crispy roast duck with green beans in butter. Oh yeah! We each got a huge piece of duck and heaps of beans.
Dessert au choix- we got to choose off the a la carte dessert menu from the following
Coupe de glace ou sorbet
Creme brulee
Flan au caramel
Ile flottante
Profiteroles au chocolat
Tarte aux pommes
Gateau Basque
Fromage de pays
Tarte tartin
Salade de fruits
Gateau creole
Where would you go? What would you choose? A creme brulee, 2 tarte tartins and a fromage de pays later and we were so full that Monty Pythons Mr Creosote came to mind. Our wonderful waitress Alice then suggested we move to the garden to enjoy an espresso. The perfect end to a perfect lunch. All for NZ$26.00 each - utterly amazing
a bientot mes amies.
Tomorrow Bilbao and San Sebastian. Thursday, London. Monday, Paris. Home in two weeks.
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